Saturday, October 24, 2015

I wish I knew how to quit you

It's safe to say it's been a while since I made a post on here.
What in the world could make me want to start this back up after three years? Well I will tell you. It's dat god damn Disney.

It's Halloween, which for many of you I'm sure means a very busy sewing season. I have three costumes I'm working on for other people right now, and they all happen to be from Disney.
First, I'm tailoring deconstructing, re-cutting and sewing back together a Mary Poppins jacket for my friend Stephanie. She bought it online and it is sort of a disaster.
Second, I'm making a Megara costume from Hercules for a more different friend Stephanie.
And third, and let me tell you. This. This is the reason for coming back- mother fuggin' Maleficent. Ugh. I'm making her dress from the Christening scene from the live action movie. While I haven't actually seen the movie, I have googled it endlessly at this point and I think I get the jest of it. The costume itself isn't what made me what to start posting again. It's that I can't really find a link to anyone who made one and is also posting pattern shapes in their progress! 
This is totally not a big deal and I think honestly most of the people who want that costume would just buy it. And I don't mind the drafting process because it is literally what I do... but not everyone has that going on and I can't imagine something more stressful than trying to make this with no idea how. And so with that being said, starting now and for the next few days I will be posting up a tutorial on: How to Make Maleficent's God Damn Black Dress.

oh. my. stars.

If I had to pick one word to describe my process for making costumes, I think it would be Frankensteining. Why make an entire pattern when you can just use the front of pattern A, the skirt from pattern B and then fill in the blanks? Duh. It only makes sense.  
After filling up a folder on my desktop of screen grabs and photos from costume exhibits, I realized that ol' homegirl is really just wearing a caftan with a train. Luckily, I L-O-V-E caftans and in addition to owning a few, I have a solid amount of sewing patterns in my collection. After pulling out a handful and narrowing it down to two stacks of 'ooooh I'm gonna make this for myself' and 'this is the one I need' I moved on to finding the right shape for the body.

Simplicity 5315 A.K.A. my future at-home uniform

Since there is somewhat of a fitted shape to the bodice I opted to use the caftan shape for the wing-a-lings and general silhouette only. The body is made from a dress pattern that had the most similar lines and shapes I found. 

Vogue 7836

I added in a bit of a flare to the center front seam, and also to the side seams to make the skirt more dramatic. I also added in pizza-slice shaped pieces onto the side seams on the front and back to add even MORE drama to the skirt. The wing-a-lings connect on the side seam. Next I used a more poncho-shape to get the right curves on the wings. 

Simplicity 7183 made for a solid wing-a-ling curve

After I had the pieces all drafted out, I made a muslin for my client Laurena to try on. I'm usually one to go all in when I make things, it's a rare occasion that I go through the entire muslin process... but since this is going to take what I am currently calculating at 9,000 yards of fabric, it seemed like a good time to make a muslin after all.
She is literally on her way over now, so I will update how that goes tomorrow. In the mean time I'm going to go stuff my face with cookies until she gets here. 


  1. Replies
    1. It's nice to be back! Also OHMYGAWD your little baby is the absolute CUTEST!!!!!